Notes on the Roll Collar

A roll collar jacket has such a fluid and smooth look. The roll collar itself is so fluid that the roll collar looks like a real extension of the bodice. Yes collars and revers should be extensions of the jacket bodice but in the roll collar jacket, there is no revers. There is just one smooth roll collar. There is the continual fluid 'roll' line.

A roll collar jacket is a good beginning to learning about collars as well as jackets. The roll collar rolls from its breakpoint where the first button is around the neck and then almost in a full sweep rolls around the neck to the other side. The collar that rolls is an extension of the jacket fabric but because there is that appearance of a smooth roll all around, it really appears that the roll collar is an extension of the bodice fabric unlike a tailored collar and revers jacket. This is why a roll collar jacket is an interesting type of jacket.

When drafting the roll collar jacket, the fit around the neck line is important ; Another area is the so-called roll or fold line to the central front and how this line moves into the central front line with buttons. There is a certain roll here too but in this article, the accent is on the actual roll collar.

The basic rules for creating the roll collar are 1) the extension of the center front line by the amount of the button stand. 2) The shoulder neck point is extended outwards approximately inch or .7cm. 3) Establish your break point or the end of the roll collar and join this new shoulder neck point to the breakpoint. This is the fold line and in jackets which use soft silks and cottons, this fold line may have the appearance of a curving line rather than a straight fold line. 4) Remember that the flat bodice patterns are for a t-shirt neckline thus the shoulder neck point must be altered for the jacket and this is why the shoulder line was extended by approximately .7cm.

Note the fold line of the jacket. This can be called a roll line too because of the way the fabric rolls to create the collar and this roll line ends at the breakpoint. This fold line extends up around the neck line and it must roll and sit in a suitable way around the neck. When drafting the roll collar, the neck area is an area where fit is important. Look at the way the roll collar rolls around the neck. A natural stand collar is created but this fact is not overtly important. Fabric control is important in the roll collar and it seems to be the case that the fabric rolls naturally to create the stand.

Thus the shoulder line is extended by circa 2.1 cm. When the breakpoint is established, you can draw the shape of the collar. A roll collar is not at all a wide collar. Indeed it would be difficult to roll the collar properly if the collar was too wide. Thus mark out the shape of the roll collar from the break point to the shoulder line. The break line is the mirror line and you trace this shape to the other side of the break or fold line.

So we have the roll collar to the shoulder line and now the aim is to get the proper shape and roll at the back. Some type of stand is necessary. However this stand seems to be created naturally. Note the roll of the collar extending from the breakpoint all around the neck. Such is the fluidity of the roll collar or the potential fluidity of the design that you can ask if there should be a central back seam for the collar. In these notes there is a back seam but the roll collar creates such a fluid look where such a seam may not be always necessary.

There is a new shoulder neck point. This creates better fit at the neck. From this point, extend the break-line or fold-line by half the back neck measurement plus an amount for seam allowance i.e .7 cm. This is the center back point that is reached. Measure back 1.3cm from this point. This is a new center back line. From this point you create the collar. Draw a perpendicular line to this point, 2.54 cm and 5cm to the front. Now the aim is to join this line to the roll collar itself. If necessary extend the line so that you can join this line to the collar line.

Proper shaping is important at the back to connect the back area with the front collar area. The fall of the collar, which you can measure on the pattern, when the collar reaches the shoulder line, must continue around to the back. And the fold line must continue around the neck to create the roll collar.

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